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Choosing a Burglar-Proof Door for Your Residential Home:

A Step-by-Step Guide

When selecting a burglar-proof door for your home, the following steps can guide you in making an informed decision:

1. Assess the Risk Level: Begin by evaluating the burglary risk in your area. If incidents are prevalent, opt for a door with a higher security class, such as the 3rd anti-burglary class (RC 3). For areas with lower risk, a class 2 door (RC 2) may be sufficient. Regardless of security class, the door frame should be constructed from steel, extruded aluminum alloy, or hardwood reinforced with steel plates and should feature a minimum of three hinges.

2. Prioritize the Multi-Point Lock: The multi-point lock serves as the initial barrier against intrusion. Ensure it is robust and provides enhanced security.

3. Focus on the Door Leaf (Slab): The door leaf is a critical component. Opt for a fully rabbeted door leaf that overlaps the frame and threshold, creating an additional seal around the perimeter.

4. Consider Door Orientation: If possible, install the door with the rabbeted leaf opening to the outside (out-swing). This configuration enhances kick-in resistance, thermal insulation, and water resistance.

5. Protect Against UV Radiation and Precipitation: To maintain door aesthetics and prevent surface fading, avoid direct exposure to sunlight and precipitation. Installing a roof or canopy above the door can preserve its design for decades without compromising anti-burglary properties.

6. Address Glass Security: If the door includes a glass insert, ensure it has a break-in-resistant option. Optimal security involves triple glass with 6mm laminated glass of car windshield quality on the exterior. P4A glass being the top choice for maximum impact resistance.

7. Ensure Proper Ventilation and Heating: Maintain a well-ventilated and heated room where the door is installed, especially during winter. In inadequately heated spaces with high humidity and insufficient ventilation, inner metal surfaces may experience condensation due to extreme external temperatures.

By following these considerations, you can make an informed choice that not only enhances security but also aligns with your aesthetic and functional preferences.

Burglary resistance comparison of exterior doors

Conventional Steel Door

Conventional steel door is the most popular in Canada and USA because of low price, low maintenance and easy installation. However, 90% of parts and elements of these doors are fabricated using cheap imported materials and hardware.
We couldn't find more than few improvements in conventional steel door construction preventing forced entry during decades.
Main door parts:
1. Door slab (non-rabbeted) - 45 mm thick wrapped with 26-24 gauges (0.5-0.7 mm) galvanized steel skin. Cheap wood stiles inside can't resist forced entry. Infilled with polystyrene or PUR foam insulation. Threshold rubber sweep will warp or loose in 2-3 years after installation causing air draft. 
2. Door frame - Pine wood (finger joint) or cellular PVC jambs 0.75" (20 mm) thick on the lock side breaks under single attempt of forced entry.
3. The most popular lock - single deadbolt which easy collapsing under forced entry. 3-point strip lock is very seldom upgrade for such cheap door.
Easy to break in by single kick.

2 to 5 seconds for forced entry without using tools.

Watch this video how easy to do that


Doesn't meet RC-1 requirements.

RC classes.jpg

Conventional steel door - after break in


Fiberglass Door

Fiberglass door became popular in Canada and USA in the last 10 years due to realistic wood appearance, low maintenance and easy installation. Most of door slabs and elements are imported from China.
Stronger than Steel door but still not break in resistant.
Main parts of the door construction:
1. Door slab (non-rabbeted) - 45 mm thick with 2 mm fiberglass skin. Wood or composite stiles inside can't resist forced entry. Can warp depending on weather conditions. Polystyrene or PUR foam insulation inside. Bottom rubber sweep over the threshold will warp or loose in 2-3 years after installation causing air draft. 
2. Door frame - composite or cellular PVC jambs 0.75" (20 mm) thick. Stronger than Pine but cracks and loosing under forced entry.
3. Lock - single deadbolt or optional 3-point strip lock.
Possible to break in by kicking and collapsing the door structure.

10 to 20 seconds for forced entry without using tools.

Watch this video how easy to do that


Doesn't meet RC 2 requirements.

RC classes.jpg
Canadian fiberglass door - broken in_2.j
Canadian fiberglass door - broken in_3.j

Fiberglass entry door - after break in

burglar proof aluminum doors

PIRNAR superior quality European aluminum exterior doors.  Maximum value! Carbon Core inside!
The entirely new optimum collection pushes the boundaries of what is possible. Its special construction is made primarily out of carbon fiber. Due to the rigidity of the construction, this is the door with the best sealing and resistance to extreme either conditions. All doors can be upgraded with RC2 standard for burglar resistance. Never before has this class of front doors been so sophisticatedly constructed, with so many superior features. 

European steel security doors

72 mm thick leaf with a three-sided rebate, made of 0.6 mm thick galvanized steel laminated sheet, filled with polyurethane foam, equipped with a gasket.
Three anti-theft bolts on the hinge side of the door.
Three 3D hinges with covers, adjustable in three planes.
Multipoint strip-hook lock from Winkhaus.
Latch strike with adjustable pressure.
Steel and wooden thermal break door frame consisting of a galvanized sheet with a thickness of 0.6 - 1.2 mm and pine plywood, laminated in the color of the leaf, equipped with a gasket.
Aluminum threshold integrated with the frame with a thermal break.

RC classes.jpg
RC classes.jpg
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